Valley Of Daydreams

Newcastle Herald

Saturday May 14, 2005

EVE CHEETHAM

ASK any wise couple the secret to their marital success and you're likely to hear the word 'compromise'. After viewing our honeymoon itinerary I figured it was a principle I'd have to put into practice immediately.

We were headed to the Hawkesbury Valley. A one-hour radius spanned the destinations that would be home to our first week of marital life and the experiences promised to be as varied as my pre-nuptial mood swings

On paper, nights between luxury linens gave way to gourmet breakfasts on the verandas of country retreats. Daytime sojourns took in the glorious changing autumn foliage of the Mount Tomah Botanic Gardens, a trek to the secluded, award-winning winery Tizzana for a private tasting, and a quiet Devonshire tea in the historic grounds of Ebenezer's church.

The thought of nights in front of open fires in secluded bed-and-breakfasts gave me butterflies as big as the fish my husband dreamt of catching during our two days, right smack in the middle of our itinerary, aboard a Hawkesbury houseboat a prospect that cooled my enthusiasm like so much river water.

Our honeymoon began at The Welcome Retreat, in Cattai a sumptuously appointed one-bedroom self-contained cottage. We were greeted with chocolates, nuts, an enormous fruit basket and champagne and found the refrigerator stocked with all manner of other provisions, including the makings of two button-popping barbecue breakfasts.

Hosts Wendy and Geoff Giggins are born entertainers and travelling the skies for decades as Qantas's chief first-class flight attendant has given Geoff the skills to ensure the couple's warmth and hospitality extend to a silver-service experience for guests.

While recharging our post-nuptial batteries on the two-hectare property near Mitchell National Park we soaked up the bushland environment and the symphony of bellbirds, whip birds, king parrots and rosellas. We watched for the resident marbled frog-mouth, water dragons, goanna and spiny anteater from our paved patio and sprawled in front of the entertainment unit and fireplace on leather lounges.

After two days, it was time to head back towards the coast and Brooklyn, heart of the Hawkesbury's aquatic play centre.

I'd heard houseboats referred to as "caravans on the water" so when I climbed aboard Luxury Afloat's Banjo Paterson, armed with six good novels and a clutch of excellent cheeses, I also carried the resignation that I would effectively spend the next two days of forecast foul weather as a fishing widow bobbing around inside a tin can.

As my husband Lloyd excitedly consulted the map and set his course into the late afternoon sun, I struck out into the unchartered waters of the well-appointed houseboat unpacked, prepared nibblies, explored the shower and learnt to drive the vacuum toilet before finally unfurling a book in a chair on the bow.

To my utter surprise, the next two days were idyllic. We climbed to the lounge on top of the boat at night and looked at the stars. Below deck, our bed was comfortable and we were lulled to sleep by the soporific rock and slap of the waves.

The weather proved us all wrong the sun shone brightly, breezes lapped our faces as, clad in knickers or swimmers, we dangled our legs and our lines in the water off secluded river coves. We fired up the outboard on the tinny we towed but our destination wasn't a river town or one of the reputedly superb waterfront restaurants. We explored a sheltered bay, watching the fish and stingrays skim beneath our bow, before we climbed ashore and showered under a rock waterfall.

At the end of our two days on the water I discovered I'd been right in my houseboat assumptions about one thing only: The Banjo was among the elite of boy toys. At 45 feet, it had size and power; offered total freedom; boasted impressive electronic gadgetry (a la the fish-finder/depth sounder) and, of course, a barbecue!

Our houseboat experience was utterly perfect spectacular scenery, creature comforts and, above all, absolute privacy. But what were the drawcards for non-honeymooners? As we disembarked I cornered Luxury Afloat owner Bill Glover.

"So, what's the attraction?" I asked. "Absolutely nothing," replied Bill.

And he's right. While the potential exists to fish, crab, snorkel, swim, windsurf and waterski, Bill said most houseboaters, like us, simply relished the chance to kick back. The business enjoyed a rate of customer return, which mainly included families and groups, of around 45 per cent.

As we drove inland up the Hawkesbury Valley for the final two days of our honeymoon, there were sighs. How could things possibly improve?

The answer lay in, for me, the most unlikely of places. While Lloyd had been looking forward to our dinner aboard the Three in Hand horse-drawn restaurant, I was envisaging a bit of a gimmick accompanied by lukewarm, mediocre food awkwardly consumed with the accompanying aroma of fresh horse manure.

Wrong again. We met three other couples for pre-dinner drinks and canape{aac}s at The Sebel, Windsor, before climbing aboard a carriage for four absolutely divine courses, fresh from The Sebel's kitchen, and a romantic journey through the historic streets of Windsor.

Modern enough for cleanliness and comfort yet authentic enough for atmosphere, the carriage rocked to the cadence of the towering three Clydesdales's hooves.

Dinner aboard the Three in Hand was the true highlight of our honeymoon and as we swapped the carriage for our car and headed to Bellbird for accommodation at Langi-Dorn Bed and Breakfast, we again experienced that wistful feeling everything had been so perfect, how could it possibly improve?

We arrived at Langi-Dorn to discover a symmetrical, three-storey Georgian home. Steeped in period elegance, including colonial furnishings, solid cedar doors and cornices, the centrepiece of the home is a masterful, handcrafted wooden Georgian symmetrical staircase.

Our lush suite was warmed to the crackle of an open fire, a home-baked slice and coffee temptingly arranged alongside a decanter of port, and our luxurious bed turned down invitingly.

Langi-Dorn means bellbird nest in Aboriginal dialect and during the sumptuous five-course breakfast served by hosts Bob and Moira McFayden the following morning, we understood how the property earned its name. King parrots, cinnamon-breasted doves, pigeons and wrens entertained us to the tune of a bellbird chorus.

Later, on the F3, we realised that, despite the varied venues and experiences that comprised our honeymoon, we were heading home rested and relaxed there was no need for the post-holiday holiday-at-home. While staying within the bounds of the Hawkesbury Valley we'd experienced the perfect balance of pampering and privacy; water and wilderness; barbecue and boutique dining. And, despite our differing tastes we'd both managed to love every minute of it.

Here's hoping all the compromises and give-and-take of marriage have such a happy ending.

Eve Cheetham (nee Nesmith) and her husband were guests of Tourism Hawkesbury.

For travel inquiries, ring Tourism Hawkesbury

on (02) 45 885 895 or visit www.hawkesburyvalley.com

The sun shone brightly, breezes lapped our faces as, clad in knickers or swimmers, we dangled our legs and our lines in the water.

© 2005 Newcastle Herald

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