Ferry Frolics

Newcastle Herald

Saturday August 26, 2000

FERRYMASTER Allan Smith runs his finger down the log book and answers with certainty.

'From 12 o'clock last night, I've crossed 117 times,' he says.

It is early afternoon on a Sunday, and his shift isn't over yet.

Mr Smith has operated the vehicular ferry across the Hawkesbury River at Wisemans Ferry for two years. The free service, which runs 24 hours a day, seven days a week, gives the township its identity.

The crossing takes only minutes, leaving Mr Smith little time for meal breaks, but the job has its moments.

'Late at night I see some funny things in cars but I won't go into detail,' he jokes.

The ferry employees have little time to appreciate the scenery, particularly the towering escarpments of Dharug National Park that are reflected in the water, but it's a nice welcome for visitors.

For many Novocastrians, Wisemans Ferry is only a green-and-white sign on the F3 Freeway, passed en route to the Big Smoke, or a summer playground for waterskiers.

But the township is worth a detour, particularly for people searching for a new, relaxed weekend destination. It gives the impression that you are getting away from it all yet it's less than two hours from Newcastle.

Wisemans Ferry is no secret to Sydneysiders, particularly motorcyclists, who don leathers and helmets for a winding daytrip

through Windsor to the historic Wisemans Inn Hotel. In fact, a beer at the commanding sandstone and iron hotel is a good way to start a visit to Wisemans, but not if you are scared of ghosts.

The hotel was built in 1817 as the residence of the town's namesake, ex-convict Solomon Wiseman. There is a statue of him outside.

Apparently a bit of a rogue, Solomon launched the town's first ferry to serve farmers of the area. The service is now the oldest operating in Australia.

The ghost is believed to be Wiseman's wife, Jane, and the story fascinates guests, says assistant manager Annette Dubos, who has worked at the hotel for 17 years.

Solomon is said to have pushed Jane off a balcony to her death.

Ms Dubos, for one, is a firm believer in the friendly ghost.

'She is here in the hotel,' she says with conviction. 'Different things happen: the dishwasher turns itself on and off, apron strings come undone when they are tied in double knots, the piano plays, lights are turned on and off.'

'When things like this happen I just say: 'It's only

Jane." '

History is a strong point of Wisemans Ferry but a great base to explore it from is the modern Retreat at Wisemans.

The tourism award-winning Retreat has 52 rooms of four-star accommodation, a golf course and specialist conference facilities.

The Retreat at Wisemans regularly offers popular and value-for-money accommodation packages. The recent Christmas in July package included a sunset champagne river cruise and a four-course Yulefest feast at The Riverbend restaurant, finished off with mouth-watering homemade chocolates and a visit from Santa.

This month and next are The Retreat's winter golf getaways. The two-night package includes two full breakfasts and a gourmet dinner for $230 a person on weekends and $205 midweek. Guests can play unlimited golf - nine or 18 holes - on the riverside course for $12 a day.

A great way to start the day at Wisemans Ferry, besides a round of golf, is to explore an unused section of the convict-built Old Great North Road, within walking distance of The Retreat.

The road, built in the 1820s, was the main route linking Sydney and the north of the State for more than 100 years, before the Pacific Highway became the preferred route.

The Wisemans Ferry section is a wonderful example of the convicts' work. Marvel at the engineering of drainage systems and imagine the effort behind the countless pick marks in the massive stone retaining walls and ramparts.

The road is preserved in Dharug National Park, and the view is worth the climb alone. The return walk takes only about 35 minutes, but there is a range of bushwalks around Wisemans Ferry, varying in distance and difficulty.

Twenty-one kilometres north of Wisemans Ferry is the village of St Albans, where the history lesson continues.

Here, the Settlers Arms Inn was licensed in 1836, making it one of the country's oldest pubs. The ceilings are low, the furniture and floor functional timber, the fireplace stone and the beer cold. Walls hold historic photographs and memorabilia that demand inspection.

If it's too early in the day for an ale, indulge in a devonshire tea at the Fickle Wombat Cafe. St Albans Gallery, displaying work by artists and craftspeople of the Hawkesbury and the Hunter Region, is a short walk uphill.

Ramble through the River Cemetery (1826), which has 60 headstones, including that of First Fleeter William Douglas.

The Fickle Wombat's owners are happy to solve the puzzle of the rows and rows of naked poplars in the picturesque pastures of the Macdonald Valley en route to St Albans.

The poplars were planted to make matches but were saved by the invention of the lighter.

They are just another of the Hawkesbury Heartland's reminders of the past.

Visit The Retreat at Wiseman's website at www.wisemans.com.au. For reservations, phone (02) 4566-4422.

Stacey Dombkins was a guest of The Retreat at Wisemans.

through Windsor to the historic Wisemans Inn Hotel. In fact, a beer at the commanding sandstone and iron hotel is a good way to start a visit to Wisemans, but not if you are scared of ghosts.

The hotel was built in 1817 as the residence of the town's namesake, ex-convict Solomon Wiseman. There is a statue of him outside.

Apparently a bit of a rogue, Solomon launched the town's first ferry to serve farmers of the area. The service is now the oldest operating in Australia.

The ghost is believed to be Wiseman's wife, Jane, and the story fascinates guests, says assistant manager Annette Dubos, who has worked at the hotel for 17 years.

Solomon is said to have pushed Jane off a balcony to her death.

Ms Dubos, for one, is a firm believer in the friendly ghost.

'She is here in the hotel,' she says with conviction. 'Different things happen: the dishwasher turns itself on and off, apron strings come undone when they are tied in double knots, the piano plays, lights are turned on and off.'

'When things like this happen I just say: 'It's only

Jane." '

History is a strong point of Wisemans Ferry but a great base to explore it from is the modern Retreat at Wisemans.

The tourism award-winning Retreat has 52 rooms of four-star accommodation, a golf course and specialist conference facilities.

The Retreat at Wisemans regularly offers popular and value-for-money accommodation packages. The recent Christmas in July package included a sunset champagne river cruise and a four-course Yulefest feast at The Riverbend restaurant, finished off with mouth-watering homemade chocolates and a visit from Santa.

This month and next are The Retreat's winter golf getaways. The two-night package includes two full breakfasts and a gourmet dinner for $230 a person on weekends and $205 midweek. Guests can play unlimited golf - nine or 18 holes - on the riverside course for $12 a day.

A great way to start the day at Wisemans Ferry, besides a round of golf, is to explore an unused section of the convict-built Old Great North Road, within walking distance of The Retreat.

The road, built in the 1820s, was the main route linking Sydney and the north of the State for more than 100 years, before the Pacific Highway became the preferred route.

The Wisemans Ferry section is a wonderful example of the convicts' work. Marvel at the engineering of drainage systems and imagine the effort behind the countless pick marks in the massive stone retaining walls and ramparts.

The road is preserved in Dharug National Park, and the view is worth the climb alone. The return walk takes only about 35 minutes, but there is a range of bushwalks around Wisemans Ferry, varying in distance and difficulty.

Twenty-one kilometres north of Wisemans Ferry is the village of St Albans, where the history lesson continues.

Here, the Settlers Arms Inn was licensed in 1836, making it one of the country's oldest pubs. The ceilings are low, the furniture and floor functional timber, the fireplace stone and the beer cold. Walls hold historic photographs and memorabilia that demand inspection.

If it's too early in the day for an ale, indulge in a devonshire tea at the Fickle Wombat Cafe. St Albans Gallery, displaying work by artists and craftspeople of the Hawkesbury and the Hunter Region, is a short walk uphill.

Ramble through the River Cemetery (1826), which has 60 headstones, including that of First Fleeter William Douglas.

The Fickle Wombat's owners are happy to solve the puzzle of the rows and rows of naked poplars in the picturesque pastures of the Macdonald Valley en route to St Albans.

The poplars were planted to make matches but were saved by the invention of the lighter.

They are just another of the Hawkesbury Heartland's reminders of the past.

Visit The Retreat at Wiseman's website at www.wisemans.com.au. For reservations, phone (02) 4566-4422.

Stacey Dombkins was a guest of The Retreat at Wisemans.

© 2000 Newcastle Herald

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